Back in Tel Aviv: A funny story...

Bear with me for this one -- I promise it is a funny story.

I arrived back in Tel Aviv yesterday, very tired after a night flight from Paris. I was looking forward to getting to my 9AM yoga class Monday morning. When I arrived, I received the very warm welcome from my regular Havarot (friends). One girl, who of course I recognized, but never really spoke to, helped me get my props.. nothing unusual. After class I went about my daily activities, stopping at the Organic Market to pick up my usual staples. While at the humus counter, I looked up, and there was the girl from yoga. Now, I had seen her at the market a few times... and I was never sure she was the same girl from yoga -- so, I never said anything, and since she never said anything, I figured I must be mistaken.

But today, I thought it was really strange that she didn't recognize me as I didn't look that different from a few hours ago -- so the new friendly me asked her if she was the girl in my yoga class... she replied, "which class? Anat's morning class?" To which I replied, "Yes, Anat's class". She laughed and said, "oh, that's my sister!"

To which I said, "Are you a twin?" She nodded -- Mystery solved. Tel Aviv is really a very friendly town!

A toast at Friday Night's restaurant and soup from Saturday afternoon: Both meals -- DELICIOUS!

Another great day in Paris: Luxembourg Gardens

Paris is one of the most cultured cities I know. There is art everywhere. One of the things I really love is the art exhibition on the gates of the Luxembourg Gardens. Each time I come, there is another photography exhibit -- this time -- photos from the Mekong Delta: China, Laos, Viet Nam, Cambodia. I am including a few of them here. I think there are more than 50 on the gates. If you click on the photos -- you will really be able to see them... and be able to really appreciate the art!! Enjoy!!

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!!

Here are some things I found particularly beautiful today on my very long walk through the street of Paris!

Egypt's gift to the French- Obelisk

When we were in Egypt, we learned that 4 Obelisks were given by the Egyptians to nations who assisted in certain excavations. France, the US, Italy and Spain were the 4 countries who benefited from Egypt's generosity. Here is the gift to the French. The Obelisk in Place de la Concorde.



I very much like the shot of the Obelisk, the fountain and the big wheel. Each represent engineering genius of the times!

Christmas Lights

They don't have lights like this in Tel Aviv!! Beautiful, no?

Off to Europe for a week or so....

I am leaving warm and sunny Tel Aviv for the cold, rainy continent. I hear there are a few good exhibits in Paris -- I will be sure to take a look!

I will miss the lectures in my Art History class this week -- but Jack, the guy from Tufts, takes really good notes and he promises to send them to me!!

Stay tuned... I will try to keep at this blog thing!

Michael -- these pics are for you!!

How could I not take these pictures and post them on the blog! Clearly, Tel Aviv is waiting for you!!

A walk in Neve Tzedek

This morning was a really beautiful day. The sun was strong but the breeze was cool. After my Hebrew lesson, I took a walk to the neighborhood of Neve Tzedek. According to my map -- this area was the first Jewish neighborhood built outside of Jaffa, in 1887. It was the center of Jewish culture and society in the Land of Israel (before statehood) and was the home to many writers, leaders and rabbis. Nachum Gutman (see the post below) lived in this area. His home, too, has been converted into a museum. I will return to go inside.

This neighborhood has so many beautiful homes, little streets and now -- cute shops. It has been repopulated with artists and writers - and kids just looking to have fun!

Here is the Gutman

Reuven Rubin and Nachum Gutman: two artists from the Erestz Israel period

One of our lectures focused on two artists from the Eretz Israel style of 20th Century Israeli Art. Reuven Rubin lived a few blocks from my apartment. So yesterday, I set out to visit his home, which is now a museum. The current exhibition was a show that depicts the Watermelon in Israeli Art. Yup, that's right -- the Watermelon. It was really a beautiful show with works from many of the artists I have been studying. The great thing was to see some of the paintings we saw as slides in the classroon up on the wall - in full size and all their beauty. I am showing you one of Rubin's work in this blog -- taken from the web as well as one of Gutman's. Enjoy them!!

Trip to the Post Office

I was so excited yesterday morning -- when I found a note in my mail box telling me I had something waiting for me at the post office. My first challenge was to find the post office listed on the note -- (I first went to the one closest to my home -- but this was not the correct branch). I found the correct one this morning and waited my turn to collect my surprise. It turns out, the mystery package was a magazine that was too big to fit into my mailbox. As the magazine is written in Hebrew- I gave it to woman behind the counter - who was happy to accept it!

Back to Yaffo for an Evening of Arabian Music

Last evening I was treated to an evening of Arabian music. 7 musicians - on a variety of intstruments (an oddly tuned violin, a flute-like instrument, a lute, 2 drums, tambourine and finally a harp-like instrument that the musician holds on his lap and plays with two hands: one with a pick and one fingers -- each had a twangy sound). There were also two soloists rounding out the ensemble. The musicians were each quite accomplished -- this was obvious when they performed their respective solos! The audience was virtually 100% Arab -- only my friends and I were of the non-Arab tribe. The performance was held in an auditorium that holds 440 people and it was almost sold out. What was a bit strange for me -- was the fact that there were mezuzahs on each and every doorway. I have gotten completely used to seeing them in Tel Aviv (they are on every shop, restaurant, apartment building here) -- and clearly -- as Yaffo is an Israeli city, municipal buildings have them on each and every doorway as well. The Arab population is obviously used to this sign - but in some way -- it seems to me that a silent message is being communicated.

The return of the Cultural Anthropologist!

Did I mention that when I came back from the trip to Egypt -- that it felt like coming home? It was quite strange. I was able to tell the cab driver exactly where to take us, everything looked familiar and comforting. In fact, compared to the Arabic we were seeing in Egypt, the Hebrew writing on the stores and street signs were understandable!! I guess the move from "disorientation" to "orientation" was successful!

What's next? I still have to meet the Lion and the Tin Man!

But maybe the Lion is Israel...in class yesterday, the lecture was about sculpture in Israeli Art in the '20s and '30s. The Lion is a prevalent symbol. The Lion of Judah, the Lion as the symbol of Jerusalem, the Lion rising -- who knows, if Israel is the Lion, maybe the Tin Man is just around the corner?

The Village in the 60s??

Last evening, I went to a little cafe in my neighborhood to hear Dor Daniel sing the many songs of Bob Dylan. The sign in the window said the concert started at 9:30 -- but the place was empty at 9:15 when I took my seat at the bar. Because of my early arrival and front row seat, I heard a preview during the "sound-check" and was impressed by how good this guy was. By 10:30 -- the cafe was packed -- people of all ages -- Dylan is still so universal. Dor came out to a huge round of applause, and he performed for about 2 hrs. The Village in the 60s? (Could I be watching too many episodes of Mad Men?)

Back to daily Life

The road warriors (mom and Nancy) have returned to the US, and I am back to my daily life here in Tel Aviv. It was great to return to class at the University and be warmly greeted by my classmates. I had the same experience when I took my yoga class. While I am a bit disappointed with my progress on speaking Hebrew (I didn't study one minute on the trip to Egypt), my teacher seemed impressed with what I remembered.

I am well in the swing of daily living. I have the feeling of returning home.

Back in the Holy Land!!

Lunch with Dana and Orna and then a bit of shopping. Dana is quite the personal shopper!! Thank you Dana!! We have new hats, shirts, belts and jewelry thanks to you!! Doesn't Vi look amazing!! Great shot Orna!!

One more thing from Luxor!

Nancy and I took a walk to the souk on our last morning.... our path was a bit circuitous, but eventually we found ourselves at the market. "No Hassle" is yelled from each shop owner... clearly they don't really know what the definition of hassle is!! In the end, after we figured out how to deal with the non-hasslers -- we had a great time. We spent the last of our Egyptian pounds and got a fair amount of pretty nice stuff.

The last picture in this post if from the 1886 restaurant -- This is where we had dinner on my birthday. The food was quite good - our first not-Egyptian meal -- and as you can see, served with elegance!!

At the Cairo Airport....

Waiting to board to return to Israel. Bye bye Egypt!! Thank you for your hospitality!!

Karnak Temple: No, we didn't do the Sound and Light Show!

There are more columns in this Temple Complex than anywhere else in the world. Two Obelisks remain -- 4 have been given as gifts... We have one in Central Park, the French have one at the Place de Concorde, Spain and Italy are the current owners of the other two!!

It is lovely that the Egyptians have been so generous with their stuff!! But, we must say, there seems to be plenty to go around.

We are told that the Avenue of Sphinx will extend from the Luxor Temple Complex to the Karnak Complex. I think I heard that there are over 6o0 in all -- There are 132 already uncovered in the Karnak Complex -- The government is in the process of moving houses and Mosques to begin the process of uncovering the remaining ones.

Luxor Temple

Hatshepsut and Colossi

More Unbelievable stuff!!!

Pics of the Temples and Tombs: Dendera

Dendera was the last Temple complex on our visit. We did this one ourselves! We just hired a driver and drove through the beautiful, lush countryside -- to arrive at this place. We were there virtually by ourselves -- which was quite a change from the busloads of people we were with in the major sites. At this place, we were able to see the difference between the cleaned and uncleaned columns. The colors at this temple were quite well preserved -- As the columns are cleaned the brown dirt comes off and the beautiful blues and reds start to appear.

Catching up....

I will add a bunch of pics from the trip from Aswan to Luxor on the next post. Each temple was more dramatic then then one before -- how these Egyptians built these massive structures is just mind blowing. Most of the temple carvings were painted with paint made from crushed gem stones and then covered in an egg wash. The colors are still visible in many of the temples and on the walls of the tombs. In the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens the tomb walls are epic tales of the daily life of the Pharaohs.

Off the Boat and at the Winter Palace!

A quick lunch at poolside before our final trip to a temple complex: Hathor and Isis or is it Osaris and Hatshepsut?

In any case it was all really unbelievable!

I was severely internet challenged on the boat -- so blogging was not an option. I will catch up with all the sites later this evening.

We are now going to have dinner in the 1886 room. We are told it is the best restaurant in all of Luxor.

Happy Birthday, Annie!

The Souk and dinner!

The things in this market look wonderful. The spices, the loofah, the scarves... but, the salesmen or shopkeepers are just too aggressive for my taste. They really don't give up so, you must really ignore them, which is very hard to do. And, I must also say, I am getting a bit tired of all the haggling.

A ride on a lake Nasser in a Feluka

I actually was steering this boat. Can you believe it? We go from one adventure to another. We took this feluka around Elephantine Island -- which was most interesting. We were able to see things that can only be seen from the water. After watching the sunset from the water, we arrived back at the dock -- to journey on the souk and dinnner.

Nefretiti's Monument

Smaller than Rameses' but no less impressive! At a later date, when I have my guide book handy I will correct any mis-spellings and add some interesting facts like how big these mountains are!!

I do remember learning about the making of the Aswan Damn and how the monuments that were found at the site had to moved so that they wouldn't be destroyed. Something tells me there were Life Magazine articles about the engineering involved -- I was probably about 7 or 8 years old when this was all going on. And of course, we all know that the Temple of Dendur -- at the Met -- was a gift from the Egyptian government to the US to thank us for the financial and technical help in completing the project and moving these huge structures.

To give you an idea of the scale of these things -- the Temple of Dendur is small relative to them!

Abu Simbel: Awe-inspriing!

The look on Nancy's face describes how you feel when you see this place. Ramesses II built it as a monument to himself and to show all the other peoples in the region how strong and mighty he was. No photos are allowed inside the monument. The wall carvings and statues inside depict aspects of life. Next to Rameses monument is one for Nefrititi -- his queen. Also incredible.