Ramessess II

Can you believe this??? The carving and detail is so precise- his belt buckle, arm muscles, decoration on his wrist band, all perfect.

What an amazing place --

This place is just amazing. It is similar to what I imagined... but bigger, more vast... Just more. We had a great day at the pyramids today. We are approaching this trip chronologically. So today we started in Dahshar, then went to Memphis (Ramsis statue in another post), then to Saqqara. Some of these structures are more than 7000 years old. I climbed up the steps to go inside the tomb in Dahshar. Up some 100 steps, then INTO the pyramid and climbing DOWN 150 steps (hunched over as the head room was non-existent) to arrive at 3 rooms. Very high ceilings but walls that pitched to an isosceles triangle. Very, very claustrophobic, but I was glad I did it. I DO NOT want to be buried in a pyramid! Then, of course, reversing course to come back up to see the light of day!

OMG!! it is really out there!

This is the view from my room. That is one of the pyramids!! Can you believe it? It is quite awe inspiring. We arrived very late last night, were met at the airport and assisted through immigration, baggage claim and then driven to the hotel.

More about Cairo later-- but first impressions from the car on the trip is UNBELIEVABLE -- to me it seemed like a combo of Delhi and Bejing. The place is HUGE, highway road well paved (Beijing, China), car accidents and crazy drivers (Delhi), tons of people... Some of the structures had a Las Vegas feel -- so shiny, well-lit, BIG!!

I know, I know, stop comparing to other places, discover it on its own merits. There will be time for that. I was quite surprised by the city -- I really had no idea what it would be like. This is really going to be fascinating.

We are off!!

We have our walking shoes on!! We are ready to go. Stay tuned for the next blog from Cairo. I hope I have internet connection. All the guide books say we do... Shalom and Salaam!

Rabin Memorial

This weekend is the 14 anniversary of the killing of Itzak Rabin. Rabin Square, in the center of the city, is getting prepared for a big event. The lights are all hung, there are candles placed around the perimeter of the memorial and many Israeli flags are displayed around the square.

On campus, there was a service today -- I didn't get to school in time to participate, but I did manage to take a photo of the stage.

I also took this shot of a memorial stone plaque, pictured here. A sad fact, unique to this city and country, are the many, memorials to those killed in war or by terrorism. You never really can escape the reality of this country's history.

Back to the Market....

I went back to the market this morning, to stock up on some dried fruit and nuts; provisions for the trip to Egypt. While I am not a big fan of prunes... the ones that this guy was selling looked really tasty. I couldn't resist buying them. Nancy and Vi -- on their way here now -- will have to try them and let you know the verdict.

As for the fruit in the top picture, your guess is as good as mine. Anyone with a thought of what it is, please comment!!

The Gas Delivery

This morning, I awoke to the sound of a truck parking out my window. When I went to look, sure enough, there was this little truck with canisters arranged neatly on its back. The driver then started his deliveries... one by one each of the canisters was deliveried to the appropriate residence. I never saw anything like this before. You?

Happy Birthday Mom!!

One more thing...

I woke up very early this morning -- looked over at the computer and noticed that the game was still on -- top of the 7th, I think -- Yankees were winning 3- 1. I couldn't help myself. I switched the radio from WNYC to ESPN to hear the end of the game. Now everyone knows that I am not a real baseball fan -- it's just when the Yankees (or Mets) get to the end that I start to even pay attention. It was a tense morning - drinking coffee, trying to visualize the game with only the voices of the announcers telling me what was going on. It took me back to another time, long ago, driving with my dad listening to I don't know who calling the game. I haven't heard a game on the radio in oh so many years - but this morning, in Tel Aviv, that is just what I did. Do I need to say that I was very happy with the outcome! Go Yankees!!

A Day at the Beach: Last Days of Summer!

The beach was AMAZING today. I never saw the water such a beautiful color. It was a bit windy, as you can see from the picture.

I am pretty sure this was the last days of 85+ temps.

I spent the afternoon at the beach after a very, very intense yoga class this morning. All inversions and we held the poses a very long time. From what I understand, Anat, the teacher, follows the teaching style of Mr. Iyengar closely.

A Trip to the Karmel Market

Here are some pictures from the market. The aroma from the different spices assault you as you walk by -- but in a good way.

I haven't tried the "bageles" yet, but they do look yummy.

At first I thought this "pate" stand was a Halavah store. That's why I took the pic.

Friday morning at the market is quite crowded. Everyone is buying food for the next two days as most shops are closed on Saturday. I was doing the same!

Mini Bus: The Passing of the Shekels

There is a very interesting ritual that takes place here on the little mini-bus -- I can't imagine it working in NY.

Little mini buses follow the regular bus route but the advantage of these little vans is that they can stop just about anywhere. Along the route, just stick out your arm (like hailing a taxi) and the van stops and you get in. The number 5 on Rothschild comes a bit more frequently than the regular big bus, so I use it quite often. These photos don't do justice to the action -- a little YouTube video would be better... but let me try to explain.

Since the bus needs to keep moving -- the driver opens the door quickly and the rider gets in. Nothing unusual about that. The passenger then takes his seat and fumbles for change to pay the driver. If the passenger is sitting in the back, the ritual is more pronounced. He passes his fare forward to the passenger in front of him, and then that guy passes the fare forward and so on, until the driver gets the money. Each using the very specific "back-hand money transfer move".

If change needs to be made (and most often this is the case, as the fare is 5.5 shekels) the procedure then repeats in reverse, with each passenger handing the money back to the original passenger. With each "pass" you hear "Toda" "Toda" "Toda". No one turns, or looks backwards... eyes forward... just "Toda". When another passenger gets on the bus, the whole things starts again. I tried to take a few pics of the action -- I am not sure I was successful in capturing it. But try to visualize!

Word Search and Coffee Update

Lucy and Ava, you will appreciate this one.... my Hebrew teacher brought me a word search puzzle!! How hard do you think it is to complete this?? AND she didn't tell what words I was looking for. So, first I had to think of a word I recently learned, think of how to spell it and then try to find it -- left to right, right to left, vertical to horizontal, diagonal etc.... So hard. So far, I found 18 of the 20. I will keep at it, tomorrow is my next lesson!

Today, back to the University for a different type of learning. Critical analysis of Art: Formalistic, Contextual and Post-Modern (inclusive)- Comment if you would like more details!

And by the way -- I finally found a cafe that would grind for me. That's a good thing!

Inside Out: The Views from the Apartment

Here are two views from the apartment. With a bit of help from Dana -- the terraces look really beautiful now. Almost all apartments have outdoor space and the trick is to bring the outside in -- the heat of the last few days makes this a somewhat questionable strategy, but this too shall pass. Today the high will be only 79 -- a big difference from the 94+ temperatures of the last days.

The little olive tree in the corner is my personal favorite!

Back from Class!

It's been a long time since I have been sitting in a classroom -- Here's how the day began -- got to school, found the building and classroom, took my seat and started to listen -- it seemed strange that the professor was talking about Israeli businesses, so I asked the girl next to me which class this was -- turns out -- I was in the Israeli Business: Local to Global class -- which started at 10 AM. My class, 20th Century Israeli Art, is at Noon-- whoops -- So, I had a coffee, walked around the campus a bit, saw the paper cutouts exhibition at the Museum of the Diaspora which is located right on campus and waited until Noon.

I found my place in the correct classroom and next to me -- Lucy -- get this one -- is a guy from Tufts!! How funny is that?? The professor is really interesting and today's lecture was about "What is Art?" and "How do you analyze a work of Art?" All the kids were participating and seemed really smart. I was impressed!

There is a mid-term exam, a project and a final exam. The final exam is 80% of the grade. I won't be here for the final -- that's the good news!

20th Century Israeli Art

Today is the first class at the University. Finally!! Details when I get back.

A break from the Political... a new hair cut!

After 6 (or was it 7) people told me I needed a haircut.... I took Dana's advice and called Itai. Well... see for yourself, I think he did a really good job. Don't you think??

In case you missed this... Roger Cohen's Op Ed

I just added the link to the Roger Cohen op ed piece about Israel -- In case you missed it -- take a look -- It captures a bit of what lies just under the surface of life here.

A Day in Jaffa (Yaffo):

Captions: A game of Backgammon; a typical Jaffa building; roof top characters -- is that Bozo?; lunch at Cafe Puaa; Music class at the Community Center.

It was at least 93 degrees today -- so the walking around Jaffa was limited to the shops that are mentioned in today's NY Times and the small alleyways of the flea market. Mika and I had lunch at Cafe Puaa -- and it was exactly as written in the paper. Excellent and not expensive. We walked passed number 1 Dolfin Street -- the home of the BEST Hummus in Tel Aviv (or is it Israel, or the world?) but too bad for me, it was already closed. I will return for hummus another time.

My return visit to the PHR agency was also rewarding. I spent about an hour with Gali -- Director of Development (originally from Teaneck), hearing about ways I could possibly help out. I left with some documents to read to further familiarize myself with the organization, and promised to read and give some critical feedback on a proposal.

I would be remiss in not mentioning the amazing Arab-Jewish Community Center. This huge building and gymnasium is the center of after-school life for the children of Yaffo. The adults in the community also utilize the center. I will compare it to a JCC but it is not only "J". It is A and J and that makes this place very, very special here. More on this later...

I am experiencing many of the realities of this place. I am not yet ready to write about the political situation, but I am asking lots of questions and digesting the answers. I am realizing that there are many contradictions that may never be fully reconciled.

Jaffa- The Old Port

I am going back to Jaffa tomorrow -- my plan is to meet the woman from PHR, then have a bite with Mika, and then hit the flea markets. How lucky am I that the NY Times Sunday paper has an article about what to do in Jaffa?? I will check out the recommendations and report back. I have already visited the cafe mentioned in the piece and I agree it is quite good!

I have attached a copy of the NYTimes article in the list of links.

One more thing...

Just to put the underline on my earlier post... today's yoga class was just like a Sag Saturday with Erika or Rodney -- almost a full room!!! and p.s I am really starting to understand what the teacher is saying..... That is good too!! Shabat Shalom, Namaste

Musings on the Names of the Days of the Week

I have mentioned this topic to a few of you... I will try to be concise but clear.

Continuing the metaphor of Oz, disorientation and orientation: Here are a few thoughts about the meaning of the names for the days of the week. To illustrate: Here -- Sunday is called Yom Rishon. Rishon, I am guessing is from the root word Rosh - meaning head. Sunday is the start of the week. Of course in 99% of the world, Monday is the start of the week, so as the week progress, here... if you don't use the Hebrew nomenclature you are a bit confused, is it Tuesday? It feels like Tuesday, because yesterday everyone went back to work and the big activity started... but no, it isn't Tuesday -- it is Monday --- because Yom Rishon was yesterday-- get it??? And if yesterday was Yom Rishon, then today is Yom Shae-ni (Day 2). And it continues as the week progresses. So, unless I think about what day it is in the Hebrew -- I am not really sure what day it is at all.

Well, why does it matter? Today is Friday, yesterday seemed like the last day of the week, and here, it was -- things will slowly start to decelerate, the morning will be spent stocking up the house with food, flowers and books -- to prepare for the day of rest. And here, the day of rest is not just a concept, it is a practice. No yoga class, no buses, few cars -- just calm interaction with friends and family.

Is this the first hurdle to really feel like I live here and am not just a visitor? Maybe yes.

A Typical Bauhaus Building and Juice Bar

I love looking at these Bauhaus structures. The lines are so clean, with the white stucco against the bluest sky accented by the green palms -- a soothing color palette, indeed.

The juice bars on the other hand have a completely different feel. High Energy and intensity!! The Yin and Yang of Tel Aviv?

A trip to the Tel Aviv Museum

The Tel Aviv Museum is quite lovely. The outdoor sculptures were particularly beautiful. I am only putting a few of the pics up on the blog. Come and see for yourselves!! I couldn't resist taking a shot of the Pollock -- and including it here... A Pollock by A. Pollack -- so to speak!

Grapefruit, Lemon and Pomegranate trees planted on the roof

We had dinner on the roof!! Potted fruit trees border the large dining space. We had unobstructed views of the Yaffo night sky. There was a cool refreshing breeze as we dined on roasted vegetables, fish, salad and as you can see, wine. The neighborhood is quiet at night but bustling during the day. I am planning to return on Sunday to visit PHR again (just across the street from the Kaminski's) and then I will visit the local flea market. Very, very cool.

Dinner was Amazing --

Dinner in Yaffo Tonight, after first Hebrew lesson...

I will be off to dinner in Yaffo with Hannan and Mika, friends of Daph and Shlo. Yaffo is located in the southern district of Tel Aviv, on the Mediterranean Sea. It is an ancient port city, believed to be one of the oldest in the world. Photos will be posted when I get back from dinner.

The View from my Terrace: No, it's not Miami!

I have been getting requests for pics of the surrounding neighborhood.

Here is the view from my terrace. I took this shot one morning, as I was drinking my coffee and reading the last article in the New Yorker: The Money Issue.

I must admit I do miss my morning NY ritual of reading the NY Times while drinking my coffee and of course, I wouldn't be honest if I didn't say that I miss the crossword puzzle too!! Reading Rex Parker's blog just doesn't do the trick!

The End of the Holidays

I took this pic on Sunday evening -- I am pretty sure it was the last day of Sukkot and the end of the string of holidays here in the Holy Land! Several streets in the neighborhood have lights hanging during this time of year. I guess hanging lights to celebrate holidays is a universal.

Physicians for Human Rights

This morning I visited the offices of Physicians for Human Rights. PHR believes that every person has a right to health care. Sound familiar? PHR focuses its attention on Palestinian residents of the West Bank and Gaza, Bedouin residents in the Negev, refugees, migrant workers and asylum seekers. Israeli physicians, nurses and other health care workers volunteer their time in order to deliver care to these people. So noble. Over 13,000 patients were treated in PHR clinics in 2008.

As a not-for-profit agency, PHR relies on funding from governmental and non-governmental sources. Mostly from the European Community. I will be meeting with the director of development next Sunday to see if I can help expose this good work to people in the US.

Here is the link: Physicians for Human Rights

Back to class

Now that Shabbat is over... it is time to return to Anthropology class. We are still stuck in time. It turns out that Dorothy not only was transported out of Kansas by the Cyclone, but also out of the land where "Time is Money." In the U.S., time is not just something we exist in, it is the equivalent to money - we spend it, save it or waste it. (In another tale, Cinderella became a rag clad, coachless and barefoot pauper because she wasted too much time dancing with a Prince.) But in the land of Oz, time stands still. There is always time for a leisurely stroll down a yellow brick road to a beach where the sun is slowly setting.

Shabbat in Oz

A Saturday in Tel Aviv is something very special. There are very few cars on the road, all the shops are closed. Only a few cafes are open to serve the many people who quietly take to the broad boulevards for a pensive stroll.

There is a serenity in the quiet. A child's laugh breaks the silence. Eventually I ended up by the beautiful beach to watch the dropping sun.

And oh, by the way, I think I met the Scarecrow -- Tutoring lessons begin next Wednesday!

Initation 3: Yoga!

With the help of Lori Rosen's sister Honi -- I found an Iyengar-style yoga studio around my corner. How great is that? I took a class this morning -- and it was quite interesting. My sanskrit is WAY better than my Hebrew -- but I am guessing my Hebrew will improve. Even as the class was progressing I was understanding "inhale, exhale", "plant left heal, right foot forward". "Kadima" "Mala" etc... I am thinking yoga in Hebrew will be an excellent immersion to the language and the life. Everyone in the class was super welcoming -- a true "kula" (that's sanskrit for "community" for the non-yogi readers!)

I have attached the link to the center -- most of it is in Hebrew -- but some pages are in English. Check it out!

Initiation 2: The Apartment

I was having a bit of trouble finding the light switch in the outer hallway -- this made putting the key in the key hole a little difficult in the dark... but I figured that one out by the end of Day 2. The life of a cultural anthropologist is not easy!!

Initiation 1: Morning Coffee

Today, I searched (not so) far and wide for coffee. While not a difficult task in NYC -- where good beans are available almost on every corner. (Of course for those who have the right contacts-- freshly roasted beans from all over the world are just a phone call away!) But here in Tel Aviv - where coffee drinking seems to be a national past-time -- it is virtually impossible to buy beans - either ground or whole -- for home use. And when asking for this seemingly basic staple -- you are directed to INSTANT coffee!! Can you imagine that?? As you can see from the pic on the left -- I was moderately successful. I think there is a marketing opportunity... Any one interested?

So Far, So Good

Here is the neighborhood juice bar. I haven't tried one yet, but I am sure whatever I get will be delicious!!

Spending the morning exploring the new surroundings. Found the organic market -- I must learn some Hebrew, as shopping is a bit difficult -- especially when the writing is in script! I guess I should have paid a bit more attention in Hebrew school.

Map

And its not even that far!

Getting Ready!

Middle East Breakfast at Cafe Orlan

It's About Time

The next chapter in my Cultural Anthropology book is about Time. We attempt to measure it with mechanical devices, but it is how we perceive time passing that is much more relevant than what the clock says. Einstein explained his theory of relativity thus: "Put your hand on a stove for a minute and it seems like an hour. Sit with that special girl for an hour and it seems like a minute. That's relativity." What is 24 hours or 90 days? Only what you fill them with.